Jump to Page #1 , Page #2 , Page 4 of the Bovaird & Seyfang restoration project.
click on the thumbnails for a larger image
Still I haven't got the engines covered and the bad weather has set in. Since this picture was taken all the engines have been covered....
Here is a couple of photos of the valve assembly and push rod. Also the latch, governor, and latch assembly which activates the push rod and the main valve....
This is a back view of the timing gears. The small gear will be mounted on the crank shaft...
Couldn't pass up taking a picture of the tag...
Here the check valve assembly (large black castings) is mounted to the main valve chest...
Preparation of the 4" diameter shaft that will be used to simulate the crank shaft for pouring the babbitt bearings. Notice the wooden ring on the shaft that helps line the shaft up in the machined cut out for the timing gear. This located one side of the shaft and the next trick was to get the shaft located to the bore of the cylinder. It all takes time. Also I used wood on the ends to get a good finish on the babbitt...
You have to really get things hot where you are going to be pouring the babbitt. All the moisture has to be cooked out of the base and bearing caps or the babbitt can explode when the moisture turns to steam and is captured in the moulten babbitt...
Started heating the babbitt and adding some old babbitt from another engine...
The shaft is sooted up with the tourch so the babbitt doesn't stick to it...
All the little cracks and openings are sealed up with a clay like material made out of asbestos and motor oil. This will contain the babbitt till it hardens in seconds after the pour...
Skimming the impuraties off the top of the babbitt, they will all float to the top. The babbit is ready, you check this by putting a pine stick in the babbitt and it should come out chared...
The pour of the lower bearing half. Notice the safety with the face sheild, gloves, and heavy clothing...
The 2 lower bearing halves came out great. I let the pour cool for about 30 minutes (one can of shim stock) and then start to remove the clamps, wood, and asbestos...
Preparing the bearing caps for pouring. One thing to keep in mind is that you always have to have a place for the air to come out as the babbitt is poured into the cavity...
The pour of one bearing cap...
Pour of the other bearing cap...
These next 3 photos are of the finished bearings. Now they just need a little scraping and oil grooves cut in and there ready for service...
This is a photo of a little "Z" bracket that acts as a guide for the check valve stem. This part was missing and I scaled an original part on the only other 20 HP Bovaird & Seyfang Single valve known to exist in Ohio...
The original wrist pin was worn out quite bad so I decided to make a new one. Here you can see it part way assembled into the piston. On the piston rings, notice that they are split rings and are also pinned..
I started work on the connecting rod to try to polish her up. I have a total of 14 hours into grinding, sanding, and polishing but am very happy with how the rod came out. This photo shows the rod before any grinding was started...
These next 2 photos are of assembling the piston into the cylinder. I used some big hose clamps as ring compressors, oiled her up good, and pushed. There still was the connecting rod and wrist pin to assemble so I only went in far enough to keep the wrist pin hole exposed...
The finished connecting rod. When you complete a task like this one it makes you feel pretty good. There are also 4 coats of clear lacquer on the rod to keep it from rusting...
In these next 3 photos you can see the wrist pin, connecting rod, wrist pin oil line, brasses, all assembled and waiting for the crank shaft. Also the piston was inserted the rest of the way in...
These next few photos show removing the flywheel key and then pressing out the remaining part of the broken crank shaft. These photos make it look easy but it took a good part of the day to get this accomplished. I did all this work down at my friends shop because he has a nice chain hoist and the flywheel had to be flipped over quite a bit to get the key and shaft removed...
This photo shows the heating of the flywheel hub to help aid in the key removal. We also welded a piece of threaded rod to the key and set it up as a puller. The puller is pointed downward, inside the box in this photo...
Here we are with the "BFH" trying to break the key loose. I had made a punch the same size as the back end of the tapered key to get as much contact with the key as possible...
Next we even tried hitting the head of the key to jar it loose. No luck...
You guessed it, the next plan was to drill the key out. This was a little trickey. I didn't want the drill to walk towards the flywheel so I made sure that if the drill was going to break out it would on the shaft side because the shaft was scrap anyway. This was a long hole to drill. The key is 9 inches long...
Success! the key tapped right out once a 5/8 diameter hole was drilled 3/4 of the way through the key. Here my friend is holding the key with the threaded rod we welded to the key. Notice the drill did break out on the shaft side...
Next we used a hydraulic jack and pressed out the remaining part of the 4 inch diameter crank shaft. If you have been following this restoration project you will remember that the crank shaft for this engine was broke in two. The engine ran away and one of the flywheels went out the power house wall. This is the flywheel that was launched....
The flywheel is all loaded in the trailer and ready to make the trip back to my shop for preparing to install on the new crank shaft...
These next few photos show the making of two new keys for mounting the flywheels on the new crank shaft. It was quite challenging to get the taper right on these keys and a lot of time was spent setting up the job. In this photo I am roughing out the key in 1 inch thick stock...
Light skim passes are taken with a fly cutter to square up the material...
I cut out a lot of the excess material on the metal cutting bandsaw to cut down on the milling required. I left about .125 of an inch material to remove to get to the finished size...
A few more passes and the key will be complete...
To mill the proper angle on the second key, I used the first key as the base to set it up. You can see one key sitting on top of the other in this picture...
Here are the two finished keys. They look simple but it took quite a bit to get them all machined and ready for the flywheels...
Jump to Page #1 , Page #2 , Page 4 of the Bovaird & Seyfang restoration project.
Website designed and maintained by , Pavilion, NY.
