09/10/05 - 09/12/05
In these next series or photos you can see some work being done on the
60 HP Flickinger govenor pulley.
A new hub has to be fabricated because the existing hub is broke out. You can see this in photo #1.
Photo #2 shows indicating the pulley in the (4) jaw chuck getting it on center. Photo #3 shows turning
off the existing hub...
Photo #1 shows the hub turned off and the pulley being faced on the inside. Photo #2 shows the pulley
all faced off where the new hub flange will mount. Photo #3 shows boring the ID of the pulley to
except the new hub. Photo #4 shows the completed ID and everything chamfered and deburred...
In the first photo here a piece of 4" diameter stock is put in the lathe and faced off. Photo #2 shows
turning the OD of the hub. Photo #2 shows the hub starting to take shape. This is the diameter that will
fit into the bored hole of the pulley...
The next step is to drill a 1.125 diameter hole through the hub. Photo #1 shows this. The final bore
of 1.751 will be bored when the pulley and hub are assembled to insure concentricity. Photo #2 shows
the hub turned around in the lathe and the flange being faced. Photo #3 shows the turning on the hub
Photo #1 shows the (3) mounting holes being laid out. These (3) holes will be drilled and counter bored
for a 3/8-16 SHCS. Photo #2 shows the first hole completed and a 3/8 SHCS being tried out. Photo #3
shows center drilling the next hole...
09/13/05 - 09/14/05
In this photo you can see the (3) holes drilled and counter bored for the 3/8 SHCS...
The governor belt pulley was left in the (4) jaw chuck to save setup time. Photo #1 shows the first
of (3) holes being drilled and tapped for a 3/8-16 thread. Photo #2 shows the (3) holes drilled,
tapped, and chamfered. Photo #3 shows assembling the new hub on the pulley and checking things out...
These (2) photos show the new hub getting (2) holes drilled, counter bored, and tapped for (2) 3/8-16
set screws. These are the (2) set screws that will lock the hub and pulley to the side shaft...
To keep things concentric the ID is now bored to fit the side shaft on the engine. Photo #1 shows the
governor pulley and new hub assembled, in the lathe and ready for boring. Photo #2 shows the hole
being drilled to 1.500 diameter. The final ID will be 1.751. Photo #3 shows boring the ID to size...
The first photo shows finishing the bore to 1.751 diameter. Photo #2 shows the drive hub chamfered
& deburred. Photo #3 shows the governor pulley assembly turned around in the lathe chuck and the
ID chamfered. The new hub is now completed and ready for installation...
09/17/05 - 09/18/05
Went down to the Coolspring Power Museum for the
September work weekend and worked on installing the governor drive pulley. Photos #1 & #2 show
the pulley installed on the side shaft. The corliss box along with the (2) side shaft couplings were
removed to place the pulley on the shaft. A string was used over the governor pulley to get the proper
alignment / position for the large governor pulley...
With the large governor pulley mounted on the side shaft the corliss box was then shimed for side
shaft alignment. A magnetic base indicator was position on the side shaft so as the corliss box
mounting nuts were torqued down, movement could be checked for...
These next (3) photos show the corliss box, large governor pulley, side shafts, and couplings all
assembled. The 60 HP Flickinger
is getting another step closer to running...
09/20/05 - 09/21/05
In these next series of photos a split bushing was made to put around a drive shaft so the piece of
equipment wouldn't have to be taken a part to repair the bushing. Photo #1 shows cutting a piece of
3.500 diameter stock down the middle. Photo #2 shows cutting the (2) pieces to length. Photo #3 shows
putting the (2) pieces in the (4) jaw chuck and indicating them in. There is a little room for error
here because the OD of the split bushing needs to finish at 3.000...
The next step is to drill a hole through the split bushing. Photo #1 shows this. Also notice the hose
clamp put around the (2) pieces. I don't believe this is necessary because the bushing only sticks out
2.250" from the chuck jaws and has over 1.500" engagement in the jaws, but it made me feel better
when spinning the bushing at 325 rpms. Photo #2 shows turning the OD. The hose clamp was removed for
this step. Photo #3 shows facing one end of the split bushing. Notice the hose clamp back in position...
The first photo here shows starting to bore the ID which needs to finish at 2.010". Photos #2 & #3
show cutting the split bushing to length with the parting tool. Photo #4 shows the split bushing cut
to length. At this point the (2) halves were prick punched to maintain the proper orientation after
removing the hose clamp...
This photo shows the completed split bushing...
09/24/05 - 09/25/05
The new 2" diameter X 6' long boring bar that I made for the Lucas Horizontal Boring Mill, needs a
place for storage. I decided on nesting it on the Lucas HBM machine base. These next few photos show
fabricating some brackets to mount on the base. Photo #1 shows cutting off the (2) brackets in the
power hacksaw. Photo #2 shows chamfering the top corners of the brackets on the bandsaw. Photo #3 shows
the mounting holes all laid out...
Next was to drill and chamfer the mounting holes in the drill press. Photo #1 shows this. Photo #2
shows drilling and tapping the holes in the HBM machine base. Photo #3 shows the first bracket mounted
on the HBM machine base. Photo #4 shows the brackets installed and the boring bar resting in place...
My son Christopher started doing some work on a part for his paint ball gun. He's pretty familular with
the lathe and these next three photos show a special bushing he's making...
09/28/05 - 09/29/05
In this first photo Christopher is putting the finishing touches on the bushing he's making. Photo #2
shows the bushing completed along with the barrel...
I started doing some work on the 25 HP Columbus. Photo #1 shows the bore cleaned up and wiped out.
Photo #2 shows gapping the rings in the bore...
09/30/05 - 10/01/05
A little work needed to be done on the Columbus piston. Photo #1 shows putting it into the lathe.
Photo #2 shows drilling and tapping holes in the piston for pins to keep the rings orientated. Photo #3
shows the pins screwed in with some lock tite on the threads...
Photo #1 shows all the pins cut down to size so they wont touch the bore. Photo #2 shows drilling the
holes in the piston rings that will fit over the new pins in the piston. These pins will also keep the
end of the rings away from the exhaust port...
With the rings all fitted to and installed on the piston, it's time to put it in the cylinder bore.
Photo #1 shows getting the piston into position. What we did was, from the back of the engine, put a
bar through the wrist pin hole and to a spoke on each flywheel, then rotated the flywheels to lift the
piston up into place. Photos #2 & #3 show this. This saved having to lift the 11.000" diameter
piston up by hand...
This next series of photos show installing the piston using a couple of large hose clamps as ring
compressors. Each ring had to be compresses and then the piston pushed forward to the next ring. The
last photo shows all the rings in the cylinder with the piston out just enough to do some wrist pin
10/02/05 - 10/03/05
In These next few photos I started doing some work on the 10 HP Superior cylinder that needs to be
bored. Photo #1 is from the head end of the cylinder with photo #2 being from the crankshaft end.
Photo #3 is taken from the crankshaft end and shows a lot of pitting. The bore was mic'd and original
Photo #1 shows the cylinder rotated and setup on the Lucas HBM. Photo #2 shows the initial clamping
used to hold the cylinder to the machine table. Photo #3 shows starting to indicate the bore and make
adjustments to the cylinder setup...
A new wrist pin needed to be made for the Columbus and photo #1 shows cutting a piece of 2.500 diameter
bar stock in the power hacksaw to length. Photo #2 shows center drilling, facing, and chamfering of the
first end. Photo #3 shows the other end center drilled, faced to length, and chamfered...