This photo shows the completed intake valve and the housing which needs to have some bushings
made and pressed into the guide...
Photo #1 shows boring a .750 hole in the housing to press/fit the bushings into. These (2)
bushings are standard .625 ID X .752 OD X 1.125 LG. bronze bushings. Photo #2 shows them
pressed into the housing...
Photo #1 shows the intake housing on a mandrel in the lathe ready to be ground. The live center
was backed out of the photo for clearity. Photo #2 is of lapping the ground surface on a piece
of 600 grit emery paper with some kerosene. Photo #3 shows the finish after lapping on the surface
plate. Photo #4 shows cleaning the intake valve and housing after lapping the valve to the seat
with valve grinding compound...
These (2) photos are of the intake valve assembly all completed. The valve next to the housing
is the original worn out one...
These (4) photos are of some work on a cam roller for a Pattin Brothers engine. Photos #1 &
#2 show truing up the OD of the pivot bolt where the roller will ride. Photo #3 shows the start
of roughing out a new roller out of 2" diameter stock. Photo #4 shows the cam roller almost
completed and a cut-off tool in action...
These (2) photos show the finished cam roller for the 8 HP Pattin Brothers engine...
In these next (4) photos I am making a cam roller for a 8 HP Pattin Brothers engine. Photo #1
shows the O.D. turned to 2.00 and drilling for the bore started. Photo #2 is another view of the
drilling operation. Photo #3 shows facing the end leaving a .060 boss. Notice the drilled hole,
ready for boring. Photo #4 shows the facing and boss completed...
This next job will be to machine a casting that is a head for a 5 HP Bessemer engine. In the
first photo you can see the old head on left and the new casting on right. The second photo
show the water passage ways. This will be quite a machining job...
These next (4) photos are of work on the 8 HP Pattin Brothers cam roller. In photos #1 &
#2 the roller is being cut-off the main stock with a cut-off tool. Photo #3 is of facing off
the cut-off side of the roller and Photo #4 is off the finished roller. I still need to make
the pivot pin for the cam roller...
This next group of photos is of making a flange to mount a gas mixer to a 12 HP Field Brundage
cam stopper engine. Photo #1 shows the mixer and the outline of it traced on a piece of 1/2"
thick flat stock. Photos #2 & #3 are of making the tube that actually goes inside the intake
port. Photo #4 shows the finished tube. Now to weld it into the flange...
In photo #1 you can see a hole being bored in the flange for receiving the tube. Photo #2 shows
truing up the O.D. of the tube to fit the intake port after welding. Photo #3 shows facing the
mounting surface of the flange. Photo #4 shows the completed flange all mounted and ready for
gas mixer. Notice the (2) 3/8-16 tapped holes for mounting the gas mixer. Also I need to finish
the outside surface of the flange to match the outside of the gas mixer...
In photo #1 you can see the pivot pin for the 8 HP Pattin Brothers cam roller taking shape.
Photo #2 shows some of the O.D.s completed and the cam roller on the pin...
These next (3) photos are of milling a fin off of an aluminum heat sink. In the photos you
can see the clamping used and how the fin was milled off. I saw cut most of the fin off and
then set the heat sink up on the horizontal mill for finish milling. The aluminum heat sink
machined pretty nice...
Back to work on the 8 HP Pattin Brothers pivot pin. In photo #1 you can see cutting a 5/8-11
thread on the pin. Photo #2 shows cutting the pin off with a parting tool. Photo #3 is of the
finished cam roller and pivot pin. The parts came out real nice...
Work has started back on the boring tool for the 5 HP Bovaird & Company engine cylinder.
In photo #1 you can see drilling (4) holes for the set screws that will hold the toolbit in
place. Photo #2 is of tapping the (4) holes to a 5/16-18 thread. Photo #3 shows the tapped holes
all deburred and the set screws in place. Photo #4 shows the main tool holder all deburred
and a piece of bar stock in the center hole, mounted the way the stabilizing and locating bar
will be in the machine during boring...
Photo #1 shows counter boring the mounting holes for (2) 3/8-16 socket head cap screws. These
(2) holes will hold the toolholder to the machine spindle. Photo #2 shows the toolholder all
completed and ready for action...
These (2) photos show the toolholder mounted to the machine spindle with a temporary piece
of bar stock locating the toolholder to the spindle. This will be replaced with the
stabilizing bar for the final setup. In the second photo you can see the carbide cutting tool
is in place...
With the out-board bearing all indicated and setup in location, and the stabilizing bar in place,
a test pass is made through the bore (photo #1). This is a headless cylinder so care must be taken
in where to stop the spindle. I marked the stabilizing bar with a piece of tape so when it reaches
the outboard bearing support, I know where I am, and can stop the spindle feed. Photo #2 shows the
first material removing pass through the bore. Photo #3 shows the entire setup, notice the (4) white
hash marks on the cylinder. This means I have made (4) passes through the bore. Photo #4 shows what the
bore is looking like. I have taken .023 off per side (.046 total on the diameter) and the bore is
cleaning up real good. There is still quite a bit of pitting up towards the compression end of the
bore, so more passes will be necessary...
In photo #1, (5) passes have been made through the bore. Notice how up towards the compression
end of the bore, it is just starting to clean up. The area of the bore, (bottom) where all the
material is being removed right now, is the area that shows the least wear. Also you can see the
exhaust port on the left side of the bore. Photo #2 shows the bore finished, needing just to be
honed. Notice towards the bottom of the bore there are a few pits that didn't clean up but they
are in an area that won't effect compression. If you look at the inside of the bore, (compression
end) you can see how much material was removed by the machined step. I took a total of .115 of the
original bore, .0575 a side...
Photo #1 shows honing the new bore with a (3) stone flexible hone and a variable speed electric
drill. Photo #2 shows the honing all completed. It looks good to see the bore back in shape again.
Photo #3 is a close up of the finished bore. Notice the few pits that are at the bottom of the
Here in these (2) photos I have started working on an intake valve housing for an 8 HP gearless Olds.
In photo #1 I am reaming out the intake valve stem guide in the main housing. In photo #2 a piece of
round stock is being turned for the new intake valve stem...